We met Aleksandr Romakhov, a man of rare profession and exceptional skill, during the «Bakhus» distillery tour. Woodworking tools are arranged in perfect order on his workbench; stacks of empty barrels lie piled up in one corner of the workshop; metal hoops are closer to the work area, there are bent bent arcs of disassembled clamps, and round bottoms and lids — all from the same disassembled barrels, so similar that an untrained visitor cannot tell them apart.
photo by Yuri Becker
«I came to the plant when I was young," recounts Aleksandr Romakhov. «Back then, the master cooper here was Ivan Inyushkin. He personally handcrafted the very first barrels the factory ever used. He was from Biysk, where he learned his trade. After suffering from meningitis, he moved to Alma-Ata. The illness left him with speech and hearing problems, so I became his kind of interpreter. We gradually grew close, learned to work together, and I became the only one who could truly understand what he was trying to say. He was the master, as they say, straight from God! He’d walk along a row of barrels, stop at one, step closer, listen, tap it gently. Then he’d run his palm over it and signal me: «Call the technician — we need to drain this one.” And sure enough, when we checked, the barrel contained less than the allowed volume.
There’s a phenomenon known as the «angel's share” in the production of premium spirits: 4−7 percent of the liquid stored in barrels naturally evaporates each year. These are irreversible losses, yet they are essential for achieving the highest possible quality during aging in oak barrels — a result difficult to replicate using more modern methods, where such losses are significantly lower. Despite appearing solid, an oak barrel has a micro-porous structure. The most volatile higher alcohols gradually evaporate through these tiny pores leaving behind only the most valuable components. These mature and interact with tannins and other compounds in the oak staves, creating a product unmatched in quality.
«If a barrel starts leaking or even just sweating, something is wrong,” explains Romakhov. «Over time, the upper part of the barrel may lose contact with the liquid due to evaporation and begin to dry out. If not monitored closely, losses can multiply rapidly. Considering that barrel aging is barely profitable — if at all — and requires enormous time and effort, each barrel must be inspected daily. If anything seems off, it goes straight into repair. At first, it seemed the master could simply sense when something was wrong. Gradually, you yourself gain skill, experience, and understanding. Inyushkin worked at the plant until he was 85. Once, he came to a celebration wearing medals — no one even knew he had been awarded the title of Hero of Labour in the Soviet Union. He was that modest a man.”
Today, Aleksandr Romakhov himself is a master and a highly respected employee at the plant. He trains apprentices in his rare but vital craft. The fact is, Kazakhstan does not produce industrial barrels. And it’s not due to a lack of skilled craftsmen. Large-scale production requires a specific type of selected oak that simply doesn’t grow in our country.
«We don’t saw oak for barrels — we split it,” the master explains. «The tree must be at least 50 years old. And not the entire trunk is used — only certain parts. Sometimes people come to me and say, «Make me a barrel.” So I start explaining what’s needed: a cubic meter of quality timber costs $3,000−5,000, and there’s no guarantee it will all be suitable. A knot here, the grain going the wrong way there… And what do you end up with? So much money just good enough for firewood?”
Having such a master on a plant that produces spirits using traditional methods is absolutely essential. Even if the company purchases new barrels, they still need to be specially prepared — and some may even need to be completely reassembled. During transportation, all sorts of things can happen, and even minor changes in humidity or storage conditions can cause serious problems for wooden casks.
And the barrels already serving the plant for decades require not only proper maintenance but also major overhauls. Each barrel is completely disassembled every few years, the thin, spent inner layer is removed, the barrels are reassembled, the inside is lightly charred, and then the barrel is returned to service.
Aleksandr Romakhov takes great pride in his profession. He not only masters every subtlety of the cooper’s craft but also knows that he pours a piece of his soul into every barrel — and that is why his work will endure for decades. And the awards and prizes the plant wins at various exhibitions are, in no small part, due to his daily, demanding labor.
Sergey Nagovitsyn